Bows and Arrows
The Long Bow: (left ..) This is the bow type most associated with Robin Hood, Agincourt and the like. It is usually made by hand from a length of traditional yew wood (although this may, and does, vary, from maker to maker ad country to country) For further information please click here, and this will link you over to another site for more information
Recurve: (right ..)This if the modern "version" of the longbow. You can still recognise the lineage, the evolution of the sport that has ended in the design (or should I say ongoing)of this style of Bow. Now with the addition of sights, counterbalanced weights, light weight materials and the like, this is the bow type used at the Olympics. All this additional equipment, and, within a few seconds it can be all striped away and used as what is known as a Bare Bow – a simple, basic,modern Traditional Bow.
Compound: It would be fair to say (from my point of view least ways – as I'm a Recurve user)that this the most modern of Archery Bows'.
The Compound Bow is made , and designed, to the highest of modern standards. Built of a mixture of laminates, metals, carbon, the Compound Bow makes used of cams to allow for higher string tensions to enable to archer to fire their arrow at a higher speed and with relatively greater accuracy.
If that wasn't enough, within that there are also variations within the styles of sports themselves:
- Target : Target archery is governed in the UK by the Grand National Archery Society or GNAS
and this is what you see as people firing at targets, mounted on straw bosses, at distances varying from 20, and up-to, 100 metres. - 3D Field Archery : Field archery is governed in the UK by EFAA (marked distances) & NFS (unmarked distances) – and this is, in some respects, the more traditional use of the bow. the focus of this style of shooting is to follow a Field course, usually across assorted "Country" environments – woods, fields, streams etc, to shoot at various targets hidden in those environments. As Animal hunting is not allowed here in the UK, the targets are usually found to be"plastic" – assorted false animals and paper targets.
Crossbow : Info on Crossbow archery can be found at IAU World Crossbow web site
Although this description is with reference to a Recurve Bow, the basic information can be transferred over to any other style of bow:
Although the information that follows can be used as a guideline, it should be borne in mind that I, as I sit here and type this, would recommend that you go to a trained expert to obtain a set of equipment that is set-up for you and your safety.
All Archers, and the equipment they use, conform to certain specifications.
In it's most basic form, any bow requires the consideration of three basic measurements:
- Draw Length
- Arrow Length
- Bow Length
1: Draw Length
The draw length is a measure of how far you, as an archer, can comfortably pull the string back to enable you to fire the arrow.
To ascertain this measurement for you (and this is best carried out as a two man job, although you could do this yourself) firstly take up the stance as though you are ready to shoot. Then raise your bow arm to its shooting position (out straight) and then make sure that the arm you are holding the string with is also in the correct first position (In line with your bow arm with your elbow high) Take a tape measure and,with your arm and bow in the extended firing position, pull the string to full draw.
With the string drawn to touch your face, usually on a line formed down the tip of your nose to, possibly the the edge of your mouth (to act as a constant reference), the distance formed from the centre of the riser to the corner of the mouth is an approximate measurement of your draw length.
An alternative method (and probably a little safer) is to make a fist with your bow hand. Place this against a nearby wall with your arm extended as though ready to shoot. Again this can be done "on your own" but it is a lot easier to get someone to help you out. Again, using a tape, obtain a measurement from your fist to the corner of your mouth.
Once more, this will give you and indication of what is known , as your draw Length.
2: Arrow Length
Again, for your best health (and that of anyone else around you) I would recommend a visit to an expert (be that a local supplier or Club Coach) for additional advice.
But, now you have an idea to your draw length, you can now work out the length of the arrows you require.
Because everyone is different, and the draw length for members of the same family may vary greatly, it is normal for you to ascertain the length of your arrows by adding an additional two inches to the measurement you have just gained for that of your draw length. This serves two purposes. Firstly although not a major problem in some ways, but having arrows that are to long for you can hinder some of the techniques that you may well develop later in your career. More importantly, you do not wish to have arrows that are too short to deal with your length of draw,because, as you pull you bow back to full draw, a short arrow will come off your bow – not a generally good idea.
3: Bow Length
Again, the Bow Length needs to be matched to the previous considerations, particularly the draw length.
It's like most things in life – if your "match" is an ideal fit, life is lot easier for you, the user/Archer – a good match between draw length and bow length means that the whole process of firing your arrow is a lot smoother, a lot more efficient. A bow that has been fitted with limbs that are to long for the draw length will have insufficient flex to impart enough energy into your shot – very inefficient.
If, however, you have a bow limbs that are too short for your draw length, you will be placing the equipment under excessive strain. The practical upshot of which is that the bow is more likely to fail – that is the bow make actually break (and I've seen a bow come apart – and its not something you would want to be near).
A matched 'limb-to-draw' length will be far more efficient.The bow will feel smoother, more comfortable and "easier" to use. Arrow speed will be maximised. Somewhere there has to be a good,happy balance. There is a median where the size of bow, and the length of draw, give enough flex to the limbs and the bow that there is sufficient energy imparted to the flight of the arrow , but not so much as to over stress to bow its self.
As you could possibly guess, there are a fair few combinations of Bow and Draw length, so, once again, if you have any doubt please consult a trained expert.
But, as an example of a bow/draw combination I shall, with your indulgence, use myself.
I am a male, standing 5' 10" (in old money).
My measured draw length is approx 28" (28 1/4" to be exact.) After consulting with fellow Archers and the experts at a local archery centre, my balanced Bow Length was determined at 68".
Below is a table of average draw length to bow lengths :
|
Draw Length |
Bow Length |
Draw Length |
Bow Length |
|
|
14-16" |
48" bow |
24-26" |
64" bow |
|
|
18-20" |
54" bow |
26-28" |
66" bow
|
|
|
20-22" |
58" bow |
28-30" |
68" bow |
|
|
22-24" |
62" bow |
30+ |
70" bow |
What Poundage to choose?
In Target Archery (and you also heard a string weigh or Poundage quoted on both Longbows and Compound Bows) the poundage quoted for a particular bow is an indication of power delivered (hence the effort required) to draw a string.
A good starting poundage is generally accepted to be in the range 24-30lbs at the archers draw length…the longer your arms the further you pull the bow back and the higher the pulling weight of the bow becomes as you pull it back further and further.
As an indication of how this measure works, the poundage value usually increases by 2lb's for every inch of string draw – that is if you pull a draw length of 30", then the poundage will give a measure of 4lbs over that quoted for a 28" string, compared with the pulling weight that is marked on the bow itself. (Because they are generally measured at a standard 28").
Alternatively, if you don't actually pull the string to its fully draw, the effective poundage will be reduced by the same 2lbs per inch calculation. The poundage of a new string needs to be taken into account, as, when requesting a replacement (and, assuming, you are not doing it yourself) the technician (for lack of a better word) will need to know the bow type, length, draw and poundage, as they all effect the construction of the string.
Please note: as you gain experience, and also to enhance the ability to shoot at greater and greater distances, you may well wish to use higher poundages. 38-40lbs are not uncommon, where as Compound bows can have quoted poundages in excess of 50-60lb's (with Recurve Archers also using poundage in the range 40-50lb). the poundage required will vary in the type of Archery you wish to partake.Field Archery may require a bow of larger poundage, than that required for Target Archery (but the type of Bow used in Field Archery may also have an effect, because the physical size of this bow may be shorter for practical reasons)
Basic Bow Assembly:
this next section is mainly aimed at those who have the Recurve type Bows (Although, to some extent, The Long Bow Archers have a certain level of "assembly" before they can also shoot. Because to the construction of their bow of choice, the Compound Archers have very little assembly time, as a general rule, as their bows are pretty much ready to go "out of the bag") calculation.
Recommendation:Although a Recurve bow can be stringed with the use of other techniques, it is recommended that the bow be strung using a device known as a Bow Stringer (see below)
Distinguish the upper limb from the lower limb (the lower limb shows the label with indications of measurements and power).layout you string etc, in preparation- Make a quick (but expansive) visual check of your equipment for signs of damage, excessive wear etc.
- Fix the upper limb in its appropriate space on the plastic of the handle, making sure that it is well aligned and hand tighten the screws. Repeat the same operation for the lower limb.
- Slide the bigger loop of the string over the top limb.
- Attach the remaining loop of the string to the other limb tip
- Take the bow stringer, it has a saddle one end and a cup the other.
- Slide the saddle over the top limb and wind the smaller cup over the limb tip you attached the string to.
- Take the handle of the bow and block the stringer with your foot.
- Pull the handle vertically to bend the bow and support the saddle while doing so.
- When the limbs are sufficiently bent, the bow stringer should remain in place and allow you to slowly slide the string up to the notch on the tip of the limb.
- Release slowly and remove the bow stringer. Make sure the string is correctly positioned.
The bow is now assembled.
Disassembling the bow is the exact reverse process to that one just carried out. It is also worth noting that, although most people can assemble their own "single handed" using the above method, it is possible that some people may not have sufficient reach to fit the string loop over the limb top comfortably in step 10. If this is the case, don't be shy, and ask for help.
Many clubs employ both beginners, and then continued, coaching systems along with a good selection of equipment for you to try as you learn.
Even if you only want to shoot on your own at home or in the local farmers field (with his knowledge and permission) this is a good way to start. You can of course go it alone and many do from books or from the ground up.
Arrows
in some respects, there is very little to say about arrows. Most people can picture a long stick, with a point at one end, and a set of three part feathers at the other. Usually fired by the tormentors of the Sheriff of Nottingham, or the arch Nemesis of the US 7th Cavalry. And, in many ways the modern arrow is actually very little changed from that perception, in others dimensions, it couldn't now be further from the truth.
Modern arrows (called shafts) are made from wood, fibreglass, aluminium or carbon fibre, and, generally, you can usually reflect the type of bow, with the base material of the arrow (although it doesn't always follow).You rarely see the flat medieval/north American flat arrow head (although some Long Bow shooters still use the traditional flat arrow heads). Most competition arrows now carry arrow points (also called "piles") which are still made of metal but, as you can see from the image above, fit the lines of the shaft.
The feathers at the end of the arrow (also known as Fletchings) can now be made from a number of materials. The traditional Goose feathers can still be seen, particularly favoured by the long bow traditionalists. The Carbon and Aluminium Shafts tend to be served by Plastic Fletchings – which come in a myriad of assorted colours.
And to finish off the arrow is a little device called a Nock. This is a plastic preformed "clip" which anchors the arrow to the string, gripping it is such a fashion that, once the draw phase had been complete, there was enough grip to hold the arrow until the string is released.
